In Food + Drink

Quay: The Restaurant’s Reinvention Propels It To Top Of The Chain

After sending shock waves across Australia by retiring its famous snow egg, Quay closed for a few busy months of renovations. With a fresh face lift and completely reinvigorated menu, the restaurant has maintained its status as one of the most luxurious in Australia.

Tim Greer from Tonkin Zulaikha completed the architectural remodel, complimented by bespoke ‘Quay’ chais by designer Adam Goodrum and a new no-table linen stance.

The dining room has been pruned from 100 to 80 seats, making those reservations even harder to score. Diners can opt for a six or ten course menu, with mixed drinks or wine pairings, or a little something from the 500 bottle-strong wine list.

The new Quay is only one week old, but the reviews are already pouring. Terry Durack awarded the revamped model a near-perfect 19/20 in his Good Food review, describing his impression as, “It all feels so Sydney; so glossy and strong; young, confident and open; alive to possibilities, deals and assignations.”

For comparison, Attica – widely considered Australia’s best restaurant and currently ranked as 20th in the world – scored 18.5/20 at its last review.

Chef Peter Gilmore’s menu maybe reinvented, but his signature flourishes – incredibly elegant baby heirloom vegetables, pristine Australian seafood and clear devotion to his craft – are abundantly clear.

Tasmanian uni looks deceptively simple, served with chawan mushi, broth and garnishes. Traditional bread is replaced by malted barley crumpets with truffle from Braidwood.

As well as the countless accolades and awards, chefs hats, incredible dishes and glowing write ups, Quay’s legacy will always include one dish, regardless of whether it appears on the current menu. Gilmore says that creating a dish to create a worthy successor was one of the hardest parts of the revamp.

“This dish took the longest to evolve and get right, I’m calling it White Coral” says Gilmore. “The dish is a very light white chocolate ganache that has been super aerated under vacuum and then frozen with liquid nitrogen.

“The effect is a light, porous structure that resembles an organic piece of white coral. This is served on a feijoa ice cream with a coconut cream. The white coral is shattered with a spoon by the diner and the flavours of feijoa, coconut and white chocolate harmonize in a light and refreshing yet intense way.”

If you can’t score an elusive reservation for two (which are the first to book out), the restaurant recommends getting a crew together to form a party of four, which should significantly up your chances.

Published 27 July, 2018